Buying a used golf cart: a checklist to use before you pay

A used cart can save you real money, but it is also where people get burned. Most bad buys come from the same few things: batteries that are older than the seller said, a cart that is older than the listing says, or a problem nobody mentioned because nobody asked.

This is written to be fair to sellers and buyers alike. Most sellers, including most dealers and shops, are honest. The point of a checklist is that you do not have to guess which kind you are dealing with.

Before you go: get the basics in writing

The make, model and serial number. A cart with no serial number plate is a reason to look elsewhere.
Whether it is gas or electric, and for electric, whether it is 36-volt or 48-volt and what kind of batteries it has.
The age of the batteries (see below), and any maintenance records the seller has.
Whether it is sold with a title or registration paperwork, and whether there is any warranty. Used carts often come with limited or no warranty, so ask what the seller offers in writing.

Check the real age of the cart

Do not rely on the listing for the model year. Use the serial number, which sits on a plate or sticker on the cart. Club Car, E-Z-GO and Yamaha each place and format theirs differently, and a dealer or repair shop can usually tell you the production year from it.

Age matters, but use matters more. A privately owned cart used occasionally may be in better shape than a newer fleet cart that worked every day. Ask where the cart has been.

Electric carts: check the batteries first

Batteries can be a big share of what an electric cart is worth, and a full replacement set is expensive. Look at them before anything else.

Find the date code stamped on each battery. A common code is a letter for the month (A for January, B for February and so on) and a number for the year, so a 6 could mean 2006 or 2016. Use the cart’s age to work out which.
Lead-acid batteries commonly last around five to seven years with good care, so a set near that age may need replacing soon.
Look for clean terminals. Heavy corrosion, swollen battery cases or white crust on the tops are warning signs.
For flooded lead-acid batteries, check that the water levels are right. Low water or white sulfation on the plates means the battery is on its way out.
Ask for a full charge, then drive it. A cart that loses power quickly, slows on a small hill or shows a weak charge after charging likely needs new batteries.
If it has lithium batteries, ask the brand, the age and whether the warranty transfers to a new owner.

Gas carts: listen and look

Ask for the maintenance history: oil changes, belts, brakes. A seller who kept records is usually a seller who kept the cart up.
Start it cold if you can. Watch for hard starting, smoke, or fluid under the cart.
Listen to it run. Knocking, grinding or squealing from the engine or drivetrain is worth a repair shop’s opinion.
Look for fuel leaks and rust around the tank and lines.

Frame, body, brakes and steering

Look under the cart for rust and flaking, especially under the battery tray where leaking acid can eat at the frame. Structural repairs are rarely cheap. See our guide to hidden frame rust for a five-minute check.
Check the tires for cracks, uneven wear and bulges.
Test the brakes on a slope if you can. The cart should stop straight and without a long pedal.
Check the steering for play and listen for clunks over bumps.
Confirm the lights, horn, seat belts and any other equipment you plan to rely on actually work.

The test drive

Take a real test drive, not a lap around the lot. A seller who will not let you drive the cart is a reason to think twice. Drive it up a grade, brake hard once at a safe speed, and listen for noises as you go.

Red flags worth taking seriously

No serial number, or the seller will not tell you where it is.
The seller is vague about battery age, or will not let you see the date codes.
The seller will not let you test drive it or have it looked at.
A price far below similar carts in your area with no explanation.
Pressure to pay today. A good cart will still be there tomorrow.

Get an independent opinion

For anything more than a small purchase, consider paying a local repair shop for an inspection before you buy. It is usually a small cost compared with the price of the cart, and it gives you a neutral person looking at it for you, not for the seller.

When you call a shop, ask whether they do pre-purchase inspections, what they check and what they charge. Not every shop offers this, and some will only look at carts they service.

Compare prices fairly

Compare similar carts in your area by brand, year, voltage, seating, condition, battery age and accessories. Prices often rise before spring and summer, so the same cart can cost more in April than in November. A cart that needs new batteries is worth less than the same cart with fresh ones, so subtract that cost when you compare.

Find a shop

Ready to talk to someone? Browse golf cart repair shops by state or enter your ZIP code and call the one nearest you.